Ulysses nardin watches2/28/2023 The next two timepieces of the Vintage Collection jump forward into Ulysse Nardin’s recent past, both being based on watches introduced in 1996 for the brand’s 150th anniversary. The movement is hidden under a solid back featuring a relief casting of a scuba diver, a motif taken from the back of the 1964 original. That has been replaced by a sub-seconds at six o’clock on the Diver Le Locle, a consequence of the UN-320 movement inside (which is the same calibre as in the Classico Paul David Nardin). With a black dial and large hands typical of scuba divers’ watches of the 1960s – brands as diverse as Breitling and Breguet also made similar timepieces – vintage original had a lance-shaped, central seconds hand. Rated to a modest 100m the Diver Le Locle has a glossy black aluminium bezel insert and off-white Super-Luminova on the dial and hands that mimics the look of the tritium used on vintage watches. The case band is thin, with a relatively high bezel and back. Named after the Swiss town where Ulysse Nardin is headquartered, the Diver Le Locle may be large but it is relatively slim, for the same reason as the Classico Paul David Nardin. The size of the Diver Le Locle gives it away as a modern watch, the vintage-inspired design details are largely well thought out, including the domed sapphire crystal with a magnifier on its underside. While the original was 38mm, the Diver Le Locle is 42mm in diameter, making it feel quite large. This is based on a 1964 automatic watch designed for scuba divers. Though hidden beneath a solid back, the movement inside is the automatic calibre UN-320, an in-house movement developed by Ulysse Nardin that has a silicon hairspring, escape wheel and pallet fork. ![]() That’s a common affliction amongst vintage remakes, and fortunately in this case it does not look exceedingly out of place. ![]() One detail stands out as modern, however, the date window. While slim the watch is good 39mm in diameter, significantly larger than the 33mm original but well sized for modern tastes. The thin case middle is compensated for by a domed back, which allows the relatively thick movement to fit, while still retaining a slim appearance. And the brushed flanks are a satisfying extra. Most importantly the case middle is narrow, as it would be on a vintage watch. Its designers got all the retro details right, from the high domed sapphire crystal to the convex dial with applied. Looking exactly like a mid 20th century gentleman’s wristwatch, this is named after Ulysse Nardin’s son and based on a 1945 wristwatch. Historically the oldest of the four is inspiration for the Classico Paul David Nardin. Here’s a look at the entire Vintage Collection, complete with specs and prices. So while they are priced like upmarket mechanical watches, the price tags are are relatively accessible. They are all stainless steel and equipped with in-house automatic movements. ![]() The fair saw Ulysse Nardin unveil the Vintage Collection, comprised of well designed four watches inspired by vintage timepieces, including the clever Perpetual Ludwig from just a decade ago.Īll four models are individually numbered on the case, but part of the regular collection. While brands like Longines regularly issue palatable remakes of vintage watches, that has never been a Ulysse Nardin habit – until SIHH 2017. Facebook Linkedin Twitter Pinterest Weibo Mail Instagram
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